OH YEAH!!!! that's bringing back some memories. I don't know if the one I
used when I was a teenager was store bought one or just something someone
fashioned at the ranch... but I remember beating the crap out of the rocky
dirt of the Springerville volcanic field. They also come in handy for
prying out large boulders from the ground. Rototillers don't do so well
with rocks bigger than golf balls hidden in the ground.... how ever teenage
grandsons with a tamper bar CAN plow where the rototillers can't.
Jake - Team A.I.
On 9/13/07, Creepin' Jeepers - Geocaching 7/01 <
creepinjeepers@cox.net>
wrote:
>
> If you're going to do it anyway, the best tool I've found is called a
> "digger/tamper" bar--about 6' long, 2 1/4' steel, #15 with a wedge-like
> spade on one end and a 4" tamper head on the other. I've beat my hands to
> hamburger in both NM and AZ and don't know of a better way--manually,
> non-explosive. You can find these for about $15-$20 at your local HW store.
> Expect about 1/8" X 4" X 1" penetration each blow.
>
> Wear gloves!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Richard Daines <rjdaines@gmail.com>
> *To:* listserv@azgeocaching.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:09 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Az-Geocaching] Digging holes
>
> The whole back yard is like that, you dig down about three to four inches
> and then hit this rock hard aggregate zone. Whacking it with a hand pick
> slowly breaks it up but OMG it's hard work. Good thing the wife doesn't
> want to plant Spring bulbs....
>
> On 9/13/07, dbledutch@cox.net <dbledutch@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> > I have seen a D9 Cat with a single tooth ripper only scratch the top of
> > caliche. The area was drilled and dynamited to fracture the caliche then
> > equipment could begin to work the area. So bring in the BIG GUNS when
> > dealing with caliche. Or as the AG Dept says "Do you really want to plant
> > right there?" \:~)
> >
> > ---- ShadowAce <shadowace.az@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > Here is an Article from the AG department: It might help..
> > >
> > >
> > http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/dealing_soil_problems.html
> > > Dealing with Caliche and Other Desert Soil Problems
> > >
> > > A recent caller was in hopes that pouring pool acid into a bed on
> > caliche
> > > would somehow loosen it up. Applying acid makes sense, as caliche is a
> > layer
> > > of lime (calcium carbonate) which forms in our desert soils. The
> > problem is,
> > > it doesn't work.
> > >
> > > You would probably have to pour a tanker truck full of sulfuric acid
> > in a
> > > hole with caliche to make much of a difference. Mostly what you would
> > get is
> > > a lot of alka seltzer-type fizzing.
> > >
> > > Dealing with caliche isn't easy. Digging it out can be an arduous
> > task.
> > > People use everything from picks to jack hammers with mixed results.
> > If the
> > > caliche is fractured or cracked, which is often the case, it is easier
> > to
> > > remove. If it is solid, it can be as hard, and impervious as concrete.
> >
> > >
> > > The first thing you must decide is: do I really need to plant in this
> > spot?
> > > Sometimes just moving the planting hole a few feet over may provide
> > space
> > > for digging. If it's a garden you want, think about constructing a
> > raised
> > > bed. Good soil can then be added to your frame to grow whatever you
> > want.
> > > This is a great way to grow flowers, vegetables, and herbs.
> > >
> > > If your planting trees or shrubs, consider mounding up your plants so
> > they
> > > can grow above the caliche. This works if you have at least 8 or 10
> > inches
> > > of top soil overlying the caliche layer.
> > >
> > > Dig a hole down to the caliche. Next, test the drainage by filling the
> > hole
> > > with water several times during the day. Drainage is poor if water is
> > still
> > > standing 24 hours after the last filling. It may be necessary to place
> > a
> > > drainage chimney through the caliche. This chimney hole should be dug
> > to the
> > > side, not directly under where the plant will sit. The drainage hole
> > should
> > > be about 6 inches in diameter, and filled with soil (not gravel).
> > >
> > > For shallow hole planting above caliche use plants in small
> > containers. For
> > > instance, buy a tree in a small 5 gallon pot. This way a good part of
> > the
> > > root ball can be set into a shallow hole. Mounding up soil up around
> > the
> > > exposed portion of the root ball will allow roots to grow out and into
> > the
> > > surrounding soil. This mounded soil should be gradually tapered away
> > from
> > > the plant so that it eventually blends into the surrounding soil.
> > >
> > > Even if caliche is not present, it is often hard to dig in our desert
> > soils.
> > > This is due to a high clay content and also gravel. Wetting the soil
> > before
> > > digging makes the work easier. If you're putting in a lawn, vegetable
> > garden
> > > or flower bed, tilling in lots of organic matter will really improve
> > the
> > > soil. The organic matter can be desert compost, peat, or composted
> > horse or
> > > cow manure. A three or four inch layer mixed into the top foot of soil
> > will
> > > make future digging and planting easier. Plant roots will also have an
> >
> > > easier time growing in this improved soil.
> > >
> > > Do not amend the soil when planting trees and shrubs. Research has
> > shown
> > > that adding organic matter to the planting holes of trees and shrubs
> > is
> > > detrimental to their growth. Simply fill in around the roots with the
> > same
> > > desert soil which you dug out of the hole.
> > >
> > > Our desert soils are rich in most nutrients. However they are often
> > lacking
> > > in nitrogen and phosphorous. These are the first two of the three
> > number
> > > analysis listed prominently on the fertilizer bag. Nitrogen can be
> > surface
> > > applied and will move down into the soil. Phosphorous moves very
> > little in
> > > the soil and therefore is most effective when mixed into the soil at
> > the
> > > time of planting.
> > >
> > > Iron deficiencies also develop on some acid loving plants such as
> > gardenia,
> > > rose, citrus, bottlebrush, and nandina. Although there is sufficient
> > iron in
> > > the soil, it is not available to these plants because our soils are
> > > alkaline. Typical iron deficiency symptoms appear as chlorosis of the
> > new
> > > foliage in which leaves are yellow with the veins appearing as fine
> > green
> > > lines. Eventually entire leaves can turn yellow. Iron deficiencies can
> > be
> > > corrected by the addition of chelated iron to the soil. Chelated iron
> > is a
> > > water soluble form of iron available to the plant even in alkaline
> > soils.
> > >
> > >
> > > On 9/12/07, Richard Daines <rjdaines@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Not a geocaching question since we are not allow to dig or use
> > pointy
> > > > objects to make holes but I can't see that that is a problem for
> > Arizonans
> > > > in the desert areas since I find it virtually impossible to dig a
> > hole in
> > > > this caliche soil. I believe it's also known as hardpan. Just how
> > to you
> > > > guys dig a hole, my gosh, I just wanted to plant a few cacti before
> > the
> > > > temps went over 100F one morning.
> > > > ____________________________________________________________
> > > > Az-Geocaching mailing list listserv@azgeocaching.com
> > > > To edit your setting, subscribe or unsubscribe visit:
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> > > >
> > > > Arizona's Geocaching Resource
> > > > http://www.azgeocaching.com
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
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> >
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> > http://www.azgeocaching.com
> >
>
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